It’s mostly Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine that enjoy a visible pride of place outside China, so Levi Wu’s Guizhou-focused restaurant feels like both an education and a treat. “These are recipes my family has always used, now being made in Dublin — but without any changes,” he tells me.
Service is refined without being sanitised: think attentiveness, metallic tumblers for tap water, metallic bowls and plates, and a willingness to answer all questions with patience.
While Guizhou cuisine is chilli-centric in many ways, the menu will register as quite distinct to anyone who’s more familiar with Sichuan classics. The crispy chilli listed under the sides are actually a beloved snack from the region: audibly crisp, fiery red bits that are salty and spicy enough to warrant frequent sips of water, but not searing. Wu fondly recalls his father munching on them while watching football.
Getting a “rouge dance” from the bubble tea menu could prove gratifying for balance, but it’s not imperative. It comes in a chunky glass, with a chunky straw and heart-shaped stopper for the opening you might otherwise drink from. The base of tapioca pearls and topping of cream, crunchy peanuts and dried rose petals make it feel almost dessert-like. Its mild sweetness and combination of textures need undivided attention to be savoured properly, which is also the case for everything else on the menu.
A starter of “spice party” — tofu strips on a bed of regular fries and sweet potato chips — comes with a sparing sprinkle of chilli. It seems like Wu’s answer to spice bags, but without the unwelcome grease or sogginess. Both the chips and tofu strips are a delight to bite into.
We had decided to order the spicy chicken rice noodles for mains even before the staff told us it was one of their bestsellers. A little reassurance never hurt anyone, though. The chilli sauce at the bottom of the bowl is not meant to serve as broth, but is sufficient to coat the noodles and toppings fully. Small chicken pieces, peanuts, pickled radish and coriander intermingled with the sauce and the noodles so well that the dish was hard to stop eating even after we were full. “We import the noodles from Guizhou,” Wu revealed later.
A side of bean sprouts marinated in chilli paste is served with chopped scallions: a great additional topping for everything else we had ordered. It works equally well on its own.
The staff brought out and explained every dish, which only added to our already wonderful experience. I gave this particular star rating prolonged thought. My initial impulse was strong, but it went against my foundational training in food writing. And while this website is designed to reflect only full and half stars, I’d ask you to go with 4.8 if you ever quote me. But if I wasn’t taught to factor in potential room for error — because no critic in the world can guarantee consistency on a restaurant’s part — Vi’s House would be my first ever five-star review.
