This review is the second among a set of two and a part of the Turned Tables series. You may find the first review in this set on Instagram.

I’ve always been ambivalent about using the word “authentic” in food writing, primarily because it’s a loaded word that sets expectations very high. It’s hard to classify food as “authentic”, especially in an age where fusion cuisine is a cash cow and everyone has their own take on traditional recipes. I consider myself fortunate to have tasted Belgian fries in Belgium during a trip to Bruges, but putting a snack as ubiquitous as fries under the authenticity microscope would be at best silly and at worst a waste of time. 

Street Frites opened on 21 Duke Lane around two months ago, in a space that stood empty for months after Vi’s House, the excellent Guizhou restaurant, closed. The place promises Belgian-style fries, which come in card packaging, quite like fries on the streets in Belgium. Fries are given their designated toppings and served in both cones and rectangular trays, depending on the category you order from. The menu also lists toppings as separate portions, along with shakes, making it reminiscent of Shake Shack in the US, only sans the burgers.

From the cone fries menu, the funky fries are garlicky but lack the promised spice from chilli and shichimi (more commonly known as togarashi). They have only a hint of chimichurri: intermittent specks of green that would have added flavour if used more generously. Surprisingly, the garlic is enough to carry the responsibility of the fries on its shoulders, making it hard to stop eating them. We got ours with a side of saffron aioli, a creamy dip with a muted hint of saffron. The staff also gave us a metal stand to put the cone into, which is very convenient.

The Jakarta curry fries from the gourmet fries section were the best of all we tasted, the most prominent flavours being those of “curry sauce” and satay sauce. The “curry sauce” seems to be an intentional nod to curry ketchup that’s served with street fries in Belgium, but with an international twist with the addition of tahini yoghurt and garlic dukkah. The korma salt, chilli, and lime are barely noticeable, though.

Sticky, sweet batter-fried chicken pieces top the Korean fries. The chicken is a pleasure to bite into; the crumbed coating adds a crunch and the sauce is sweeter than standard Korean hot sauce. These come with a dollop of miso and wasabi mayo, which is slightly pungent and a worthy accompaniment. However, the fries below the chicken are low on seasoning and could benefit from a generous drizzle of the sticky, sweet sauce that coats the chicken pieces.

The fla’mango — a shake with mango, candied jalapeño, agave, and lime — tastes like sweet and tart mango candy. It’s frothy and topped with togarashi, which along with the lime lends it a hint of tartness that complements its sweetness surprisingly well. It’s a cool, comforting drink to go with the fries, most of which are crisp on the outside except when doused in sauce.

Street-style fries add a novel touch to the Duke Lane area and its surroundings, since most other fries are available as standard portions in restaurants and bars. I predict that Street Frites will manage to win hearts because of its innovation, simplicity, and warm service. And the space has only four tables of two, so it won’t be long before Dubliners are seen carrying cones and trays of heaps of fries around.